McRice Burger

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This is a Beef Supreme McRice Burger, a beef patty with lettuce and sauce between two patties of molded sticky rice rather than the usual bread bun. It’s apparently been a big hit at Asian McDonald’s outlets, though my friends here in Manila say the P100 price tag for a meal is a bit steep. Coming from the land of $7 lunches, I say $2 is great for a McRice Burger with fries and soda, even at Filipino serving sizes. I’m certain a good part of the price goes to that unique packaging, a pull-and-peel tab affair which makes it possible to eat the rice sandwich without getting the fingers all sticky. McRice Burger, B+ score! (It would get an A if it were just bigger, but again, Filipino serving sizes.)

Happy Operculectomy Plus Shave and a Haircut Day!

You’ll be about halfway to the clinic way out in Alabang before you realize you’ve forgotten the panoramic X-Ray you spent 800 pesos on last week to see how straight your wisdom teeth are.

The dentist said that the best thing would be to eventually have them all extracted, but the soonest the oral-maxillofacial surgeon would be available for such a procedure would be two days before your multi-leg flight back home, no part of which would make the post-operative pain and swelling much more fun than it would be normally. Instead, she recommended a simple operculectomy as a stopgap measure until such time that a full extraction could be executed. This is a removal of the operculum, the little extension of gum tissue over the top of a semi-erupted wisdom tooth which traps food particles and makes cleaning difficult. It’s a periodontal procedure, but the surgeon can do it easily, much sooner.

You’ll get the X-Ray and arrive at the clinic an hour late, but the surgeon will be fine with it since she’s running late, too. While you recline in a chair facing towards the highway, you’ll share a laugh over how your second cousin was head of oral-maxillofacial at her med school while she was there. You’ll have to take off your wrist watch, as the thermal cauterizer requires removal of metal from exposed skin, then she’ll inject local anesthesia into your gums in three different spots. She’ll say it’ll sting but it won’t hurt too much, and soon the whole left side of your mouth will be heavy and numb. At any given time there’ll be two or three dental implements and fingers in your mouth, probing, dabbing, cutting, sucking, cauterizing, and sometimes a bit of sensitivity will flash some pain through the anesthesia, but you’re a strong and courageous trooper who isn’t bothered by a little twinge.

The whole time, the surgeon will be explaining how third molars are encased in a sac of tissue which encourage their eruption, but sometimes the sac mucosa can stay around the crown of the tooth and merge with the gum, forming the operculum which covers a semi-erupted wisdom tooth and provides a place for bacteria to thrive and cause pericoronitis. While she talks about this, you’ll ponder on how nice it would be for dentists and periodontists and such to provide little keyboards hooked up to speech units by the reclining chairs for patients to be able to converse, Stephen Hawking style.

The procedure will be done in about fifteen minutes, ending with something like a chewing gum wad placed over the newly exposed crown of your wisdom tooth, to protect it and shape pockets out of your new gumline. The surgeon will tell you to take some over-the-counter pain killer as soon as you get home, and that the worst of the pain and swelling will be within 48 hours, after which it will subside.

Later that day, you’ll go to the barber shop of your childhood for your usual yearly shave and haircut (where “shave” is code for full face and upper body massage with hot towel and maybe a shave), but you’ll find the place closed and abandoned, doors chained up and barber pole dark. The security guard will tell you that it’s gone, but there’s a new barber shop around the corner, where most of the barbers have moved to because the owner of the old barber shop ran out of money. You’ll go to the new barber shop and get a 330 peso shave and haircut, but your childhood barber will have retired earlier this year and the new guy is just a bit too harsh with his massage fingers and a bit too light with the razor. You’ll tip him generously anyway, and look in the mirror to see if your cheek is swelling — it isn’t — and be amazed at how old you look with this new crew cut and those dark circles under your eyes.

Happy Operculectomy Plus Shave and a Haircut Day!

(With apologies to Girls Are Pretty.)

Fruitcake

Round these parts we eat our Christmas fruitcake. And enjoy it, too.

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Christmas 2006: Worship x 3

Merry Christmas! So I did indeed go to three different worship services yesterday:

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This here is the building and sanctuary of Greenhills Christian Fellowship which, despite its name, is not in Greenhills but in Ortigas Center. This was the “born-again” church at which I went to services in the early days of my switch to evangelical Protestantism. GCF is very much a modern megachurch, complete with blocky architecture, Don Moen praise-worship songs, multiple overhead screens showing song lyric animations, and clapping and hand waving from the packed Filipino congregation. (I admit with some wry shame that I was part of this pop-church culture back in more youthful days, when I was a song leader at GCF’s South Metro satellite in Alabang.)

IMG_9315.JPG Immediately after morning service at GCF I joined my family over at Mary the Queen, our home parish church, for an 11am Fourth Sunday of Advent Mass. Up until my conversion to evangelical Protestantism, the Jesuit-run MTQ was home church to me, the church of my childhood where my family regularly went for Sunday Mass (except when we were running late and had to go instead to the nearby Santuario de San Jose which had masses starting fifteen minutes later). I was with the choir here as well, a mellow post-Vatican II affair of guitars and mixed voices singing Filipino Catholic standards of the Manoling Francisco variety.

IMG_9374.JPG The Christmas Eve Midnight Mass was held with the Bautista clan, a huge branch of relatives on the Ordoveza tree, at their home in Makati. Fr. Unson celebrated the Mass, as always, with a quintessentially Jesuit sermon on the Incarnation, heavy on theology, with quotes from Soren Kierkegaard and Bishop Irenaeus. Music was similarly mellow: guitars and mixed voices, with me backing up the bass section. This was followed by much conversation among cousins, with the consumption of large quantities of goto, lengua, lechon, jamon, and ensaymada.

Tonight, the same clan, along with other branches of the Ordoveza family, all come over to our home here in Greenhills for a Christmas Night Dinner. Even this moment a maid is setting up the chocolate fondue fountain. I know it’s Christmas morning for you folks in the U.S., so a Merry Christmas to you all. I hope that the Chrismanukkawanzaajj Fairy brings you everything you asked him for. Here’s a photo of our Christmas tree:

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The 24th

Good morning. When I sit in the lanai with my iBook facing out to the yard, angled just so, I can just barely pick up a tiny trace of signal from a “linksys” WAP. It is via this tenuous thread of connectivity that I radiate this message out to you.

I spent most of yesterday hunting for a last-minute gift for my brother in “V-Mall,” the shopping center formerly known as “Virra Mall,” whose last pre-renovation days I captured two Christmases ago. Given some time, I will go around there with my camera and take matching “after” photos.

Today is the 24th, Christmas Eve Day, and also the Fourth Sunday of Advent. Roman Catholics this weekend must attend two masses to cover two holy days of obligation: the standard Sunday Advent Mass, and the Christmas Day Mass, usually celebrated as a Midnight Mass here in the Philippines, which means Filipino Catholics will likely be going to church twice within the same day. (My home church, FBCDC, will be having a special morning worship service to segue from Advent to Christmas in one grand event.) In addition, I would like to try and visit early worship at GCF, my old evangelical church in Ortigas, to see how things are going there, so I’ll be attending church in one form or another no less than three times in a day. And I have to go out to V-Mall one more time to pick up gift bags, because I ran out of those last night and I wasn’t able to pack the Morbid Snowmen for lack of room.

Merry Christmas, then, in case I don’t see you. Comments are back on!

Caturday!

Since I’m away from home, today’s Special Edition Caturday features non-Pandora cats, specifically Mom’s backyard-bred Persians, which sadly are kept in cages in the back of the house:

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Third World Connectivity

Much to my dismay, broadband internet access at my family’s home has been down ever since Typhoon Milenyo, and PLDT DSL has been dragging its feet on getting things back up and running again. All we have at home right now is painfully slow dial-up access, charged by the minute, on my mom’s computer, a crotchety old Toshiba Satellite prone to “fainting spells” where the screen randomly blacks out until the little “laptop-closed” sensor nub is jiggled. This is pretty much equal to not having any access, and restoration of home broadband is looking like a pretty remote prospect for the duration of my visit, so I must instead leech whatever wireless I can get in my travels. Comments and trackbacks will have to stay off for a bit longer, thanks to the wonders of third world connectivity.

The morning after my arrival I went to a dentist to get a couple of small fillings, and it looks like I’m going to need my wisdom teeth out soon. My schedule doesn’t really allow that, but I could get an operculectomy as a stopgap measure. Either way, it sounds like great fun!

Went to a Simbang Gabi (actually more of a Simbang Umaga) at 6am this morning with relatives, followed by a massive breakfast buffet of all manner of wonderfully greasy Filipino breakfast viands: tapa, tocino, tuyo, danggit, and more. Tonight I met up with a mixed group of college and grade school friends, who have managed to mix up with each other in throes of romance and matrimony.

(Now I am in a quandary as to how to tag this post. Do these mundane postings from a trip home for the holidays still count as “travel,” or do they fall more under the “journal” category? Certainly it counts as a “philippines” entry as well. I guess I’ll go with “travel” since I’m still away from my routine and in another country.)

The Long Trip to Manila

Washington DC National Airport (DCA)

IMG_9101.JPG Manning the United Airlines check-in desk, a Ms. V. Hawkins. She is remarkably standoffish and catty towards me, especially when I tell her that I am connecting in Hong Kong to an airline with no ticketing agreement with United. I would like my bags checked forward to my Cebu Pacific flight, so that I can avoid the ordeal of baggage reclamation, immigration, and re-check-in. She does not give me a pleasant face on hearing this.

“Oh, we don’t have a ticketing agreement with them. What airline is this? Cathay Pacific? Oh, Zeboo Pacific? How do you spell that? C-E-B-U? Okay, yes, I know how to spell ‘Pacific,’ thank you. No, I won’t be able to to do it. What’s that? Oh, your brother at O’Hare was able to have it checked through? Well, no, we have no ticketing agreement with them. No, we don’t have a baggage agreement with them either. Six hour layover? Well, I definitely can’t check this through, you know. No, no. Can’t be done. What? Oh, very well, I will ask about this.” <Two minute consultation with supervisor, followed by tapping away at check-in desk computer, followed by sudden onset of pleasant demeanor.> “OK, here is your boarding pass, sir. Your bags have been checked all the way through to Manila. You need only check in at the Cebu Pacific transfer desk. Thank you for flying United.”

Amy and I then order a last breakfast at T.G.I.Fridays before it comes time for me to go. The waiter brings us our omelettes and coffee and says, deadpan, “Now be careful, because these plates are very cold.” The plates are, of course, very hot. We chuckle. This is exactly the kind of non sequitur humor that gets a very big tip from me. (I did leave him 25%.)

United Flight 605 to Chicago O’Hare (ORD)

Chicago Wiggle My seatmate is a chatty management consultant from Burlingame, CA. “So what are you doing in Chicago?” he asks.

“Actually, I’m transferring to a flight to Hong Kong.”

“Ah, so what are you doing in Hong Kong?”

“Well, from there I’m transferring to a plane to Manila. Christmas with the family.”

“Wow. I bet the first thing you do when you get there is pop a San Mig or two.”

“I dunno, maybe Guinness has me spoiled, but I find San Mig a bit too hoppy and bitter for my taste. Anyway, first thing I have to do the morning after I arrive is, would you believe, a dentist appointment. You wouldn’t believe how cheap a cleaning is there.” (I’m not kidding about this, it’s like $20.)

“Cool, kind of celebrity plastic surgeries in Argentina.”

“Yeah.”

“Well, while you’re transferring terminals at O’Hare, keep an eye out for the freaky curvy rainbow wall tunnel with the flashy neon ceiling installation.”

“Dude.”

United Flight 892 to Hong Kong International Airport (HKG)

IMG_9200.JPG After leaving the gate, there is a 1.5 hour tarmac delay while FAA clears a backlog of international northbound flights. The pilot makes a crack over the PA system, something like, “Ladies and gentlemen, if you’ve dealt with IRS bureaucrats, then you know what it’s like to deal with FAA ones.” The joke mostly flies over the heads of passengers: Hong Kong-bound Chinese immigrants.

It’s a 16 hour transpolar flight. Coach seat. Window, beside two people who don’t move much. Older Boeing 747-400 without a personal video monitor. The first six hours are intolerable, then it all suddenly seems to go faster. Someone on the flight crew must really like Lady on the Water and Talladega Nights; each of those movies is shown three times through the course of the ride, as well as some football movie with Mark Wahlberg in it. But he’ll always be Dirk Diggler to me.

Hong Kong International Airport (HKG)

IMG_9207.JPG Hooray for the wireless access point with SSID “JALLOUNGE,” which I assume belongs to Japan Airlines. The signal is strong and easily picked up from the Sky Garden Cafe, so I am able to upload photos and answer my email while I dine on spicy shredded pork noodles and Watson’s Water.

Also hooray for the Premium Shower Lounge. For HK$80 (about US$11) you get a luxurious hot private shower, towel and condiments (soap and shampoo) provided — absolutely wonderful after almost a full day in the air. (Remember to pack spare underwear in your carryon.) Signs in the stall tell me to limit my shower to 20 minutes, and not to use the shower as a solid waste toilet. And whatever conditioner is in that shower dispenser, I want it, because my hair has never looked this darn good while long, ever.

mo_777_.jpg Another big hooray for HKG’s free Resting Lounges near Gates 31 and 60 — soft reclining chairs amidst strategically placed marble planters right off the concourse, so that you can rest in a semi-private nook all your own, while sleeping or watching planes pass by. When I wake up, it’s time to board the flight to Manila.

Cebu Pacific Flight 143 to Manila

IMG_9210 Bottled Green Tea is not the best drink to serve people flying on a plane. The caffeine keeps them awake, restless, and having to go to the bathroom. As my mom always says, “T=P.”

Sitting beside me are a couple of Assemblies of God missionaries on their way to Asia Pacific Theological Seminary. The wife used to be a lobbyist for the Diabetic Association, so she knows her way around Washington, DC. They say they are taking an express bus up to Baguio tomorrow. I say I will pray very hard for them.

Ninoy Aquino International Airport, Manila (MNL)

IMG_9214 The plane lands seven minutes earlier than scheduled. At the baggage claim, the baggage feeder conveyor is not working, so they have two guys standing on the platform, manually hauling bags up from below and straight onto the baggage claim itself. Ah, Philippines.

The arrivals area mills with overseas workers coming home for Christmas. Many hugs and cries of delight. It’s warm out, with a light drizzle. Manila is a city of many sights and sounds and scents, a new one every second.

(But not all those scents are good ones.)

More photos here.

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Leaving on a Jet Plane

Well, I’m off to the Philippines to spend Christmas and New Year with the family. The flights go from DCA to ORD to HKG to MNL, the longest leg of the trip being the 16 hour transpolar ORD-HKG trip, and the longest layover being the 6 hour transfer at HKG. All told I’ll be about 28 hours in the air or at airports, most of which I hope to spend either sleeping or peering out the window at the icy landscape below.

Comments and trackbacks will be off sitewide until I recover from jet lag. I do enjoy air travel, and updates en route will be posted here or on Flickr or Twitter depending on availability of wireless internet or a mobile signal.